If the ceiling where you’re placing your tin tiles is in poor condition, there will be additional costs associated with fixing it before you can install the grid or the tin. The larger the square footage, the more you’ll pay for tiles. Ceiling Size and ConditionĪt $5.50 per square foot on average, a 48-square-foot area costs $260 for the tiles. The cost of a tin ceiling can fluctuate depending on how it’s set up, the materials you choose, and the pro you hire. If desired, you can prime and then paint the ceiling.Find hiring guides, material costs, expert advice, how-to's and more. Then, install the rest of the cornice around the room. Cut the last piece to fit.Īfter installing cornice pieces across the first wall, move on to the adjacent wall.Ĭut a coped joint on a length of cornice and then slide it tightly into the corner. Continue installing square-cut cornice pieces until you reach the next corner. Nail it to the wall and ceiling every 6 inches. Place the first cornice on the line and against an inside corner. Use a level to extend this mark across the wall and around the room, creating a level reference line for positioning all the cornice pieces. Hold a cornice to the ceiling on the starting wall, overlapping the edge of the last row of panels. However, the starting piece should have square cuts at both ends. Mitered pieces meet at 45-degree angles at outside corners. Lay out the precut coped and mitered cornice pieces on the floor to determine how they’ll be arranged on inside and outside corners.Ĭoped pieces slide into square-cut pieces at inside corners. Once you have your plywood up and your layout scheme established, nailing up the metal-especially if you rent yourself a brad nailer and compressor to alleviate the tiresome work of hammering overhead-is just a matter of finessing the panels and cornice pieces into place. This will make the ceiling look neater to someone walking through the door. A row of panels should be centered over the entry to the room, and the joints between panels should overlap in such a way that cut edges face away from the room’s entry. Think about layout before you start putting up panels. This is the most difficult part of the job: finding the joists and then raising and screwing plywood sheets to them. So first you’ll need to cover the ceiling with plywood to create a secure nailing surface. The metal used for the panels is heavy-if you hang them directly off of drywall or plaster the nails will pull out. Keep in mind, also, that the patterns on these ceilings have a repeat a smaller repeat is better for a smaller room. If you leave the metal showing, you can still cover imperfect joints with clear caulk and metallic touch-up paint, but these spots will be more visible. That way, you can caulk and paint over mistakes. Traditionally, tin ceilings were painted if you have any trepidation about installing the ceiling neatly, you should probably plan to go that route. The steel comes either powder coated or bare the former is meant to be left looking like metal (and is colored in different finishes), while the latter is for painting. That includes cornice pieces cut to fit together tightly: At inside corners, one piece will be coped (cut at an angle and shaped to hug the curves of the adjoining piece) and at outside corners both pieces will be mitered to meet at a point. The good news is that, once you provide room measurements and - configuration, manufacturers will calculate for you how many of the 2-by-2-foot panels and 4-foot cornice pieces you actually need. To cover a ceiling with tin (steel, actually) you need panels for the field and cornice pieces to bridge the junction between ceiling and wall.
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